Petzl Grigri 2

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Price: $99.95    

Product Feature

• Petzl Charlet
• Petzl Grigri 2
• Rope and Rope Management
• Belay and Rappel Devices
• 2013

Product Description

Belay device with assisted braking for 8.9 to 11 mm ropeThe GRIGRI 2 belay device with assisted braking is designed to facilitate belay maneuvers. The GRIGRI 2 works equally well for lead climbing and top roping. It may be used on all single dynamic 8.9 to 11 mm ropes on the market (ideal at 9.4 mm to 10.3 mm). Both compact and ultra-light, the GRIGRI 2 will accompany you on climbs around the world for many years. The GRIGRI 2 has a new design that allows excellent control during the descent..Features:Belay technique identical to classic belay systems: both hands on the rope. A fall is stopped by tightening the hand on the free end of the rope.Assisted braking capability: during fall arrest, the belayer holds the free end of the rope, the cam pivots and pinches the rope, increasing the braking action until the rope stops sliding.The GRIGRI 2 has a new design that allows excellent control during the descent. One hand holds the rope and the other uses the handle to unlock the cam. The patented handle design allows a very gradual release of the rope. In combination with the strong braking action of the cam, it gives a great feeling of control when lowering a partner or rappelling.The GRIGRI 2 is compact and ultra-light at 185 g (25 % smaller and 20 % lighter than the GRIGRI)The construction includes a stainless steel friction plate and cam to ensure a long life for the productFor 8.9 to 11 mm single ropes (ideal at 9.4 to 10.3 mm)Diagrams for rope installation engraved on belay device (interior and exterior)3-year guaranteeWeight: 185 gAluminum side platesStainless steel cam and friction plateReinforced nylon handleprEN 15151 Certified

Petzl Grigri 2 Review

This and the original Grigri are the two most common assisted-locking belay devices. I've had some experience with the original, a few weeks with this, and none with the Trango Cinch or the like, so take my impressions for what they're worth.

The major reason you'd buy an assisted-locking device is for the extra safety margin. The Grigri has a locking cam that halts the rope when it pulls out at a certain speed. That's a tremendous boon where the belayer is inattentive or inexperienced, or where the belayer can't see the climber. It's also next to impossible to get the webbing of your brake hand stuck in it, as I've seen twice occur with sudden falls to ATCs in the last three months. And when your climber wants to hang, it's a lot easier to sit and chill when you don't need to keep constant heavy braking tension.

Relative to the old Grigri, this one is significantly smaller and lighter. The old one could feel like an anchor if left on the harness for difficult climbs. This one, not so much. The friction lip is also a bit wider and easier to slot your fingers under, a helpful fulcrum if you're holding the cam down to feed rope. Inside, the rope grooves are sharper and tighter, which allows Petzl to officially support thinner ropes, but has some downstream implications I get into below.

The belay learning curve for top-roping is very short. For the initial feed of rope through the device, the Grigri is ingrained with clear directional diagrams. Taking rope is identical to what you'd do with an ATC.

Feeding rope for lead climbs takes a bit more practice. Conventional belay technique has your brake hand on the rope at all times. You don't really modify that with the Grigri, but you may need to leave additional slack between the mechanism and your brake hand, and use a thumb from that hand to hold the locking cam down while you pull through. It is actually possible to feed rope very quickly without engaging the locking cam if both ends of the rope are vertical, but I found this method inconsistent. An advantage of manual-locking belay devices is that, when the lead climber falls, they allow the belayer to feed rope for a softer brake and a dynamic catch. This ability is negated by the Grigri's immediate cam engagement, though a lighter belayer may well lift off the ground, a dynamic catch in itself.

Descending and letting down climbers is a novel experience. All of the original Grigris I've used have been very forgiving with the thick and fuzzy indoor ropes I've encountered. The Grigri 2, not so much. The difference between your climber inching and plummeting is about 10% pressure on the handle. I eventually grew adept at quick and controlled descents after about a dozen belays, but only by fixing my hand in place and using my shoulder to adjust the pressure. Fingers alone inevitably led to a quick drop, followed by my climber lifting me off the ground when I let off and the cam suddenly closed. While Petzl's literature implies that the friction lip should control the speed instead of the handle, I've found that careful manipulation of both is necessary. Also of note: with the original Grigri, you could press on the cam to lower a hanging climber without using the handle. For better or worse, that's no longer possible.

On balance though, unless I need the additional versatility of a conventional ATC, I always reach for a Grigri. I don't recommend it at the outset to novices because it can promote sloppy belay technique, but after you've been at it for a little while, it's a wonderful accessory. A simpler, cheaper, and slightly less foolproof alternative is Mammut's Smart Belay Device.

ADDENDUM: The very first copies of the Grigri 2 were recalled for a defective release handle. Any new copy is likely to be post-recall. Beware used copies from early 2011. The affected serial numbers are on Petzl's website.

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